30 before 30: No. #3 – Learn to ski/surf

Just a reminder of the list:

  1. Learn to ride a motorbike
  2. Go skydiving
  3. Learn how to ski/surf
  4. Eat a vegetable that you’ve grown from seed
  5. Deadlift 100kg
  6. Pay for a stranger’s meal
  7. Swim Boscombe to Bournemouth pier
  8. Learn how to play poker
  9. Do the splits
  10. Have visited 30 countries
  11. Cycle London to Brighton
  12. Go to the opera
  13. Read the bible entirely
  14. Get a tattoo
  15. Sleep under the stars
  16. Repair a bike puncture
  17. Go to a life drawing class
  18. Engage in a clinical trial
  19. Go to Shakespeare’s Globe
  20. Go to an outdoor screening of a film
  21. Sell a piece of artwork you’ve created 
  22. Carve a pumpkin
  23. Do a pull up 
  24. Go stand up paddle boarding
  25. Climb the three peaks
  26. Write and record a song
  27. Learn to play chess
  28. Visit someone in prison
  29. Read a famous trilogy 
  30. Become a doctor

So I gave myself a little bit of wiggle room with no. #3 on the list, I didn’t know which would come first (and frankly I’d still love to learn to ski) but the opportunity to take a surfing lesson came up and I jumped at it. Whilst I was on my trip to Australia I joined a group visiting Jervis Bay very last-minute, and to my delight part of this trip included a surfing lesson.

Now I wouldn’t go as far as calling myself a ‘surfer’, and I certainly have a lot more to learn, but I did manage to (with a little assistance from Geoff, our instructor), catch a wave, stand up on the board, and ride it in to the shore. And let me tell you, it was absolutely thrilling. I can’t wait to do it again and can certainly see some of my upcoming summer being spent in the water trying to recreate this moment. The only thing I’m sad about is how much colder the water will be; better invest in a wetsuit!